Raising Heritage Turkeys- One Farmers Perspective

We certainly are getting a lot of attention these days.  We are Bourbon Reds, part of a group of turkeys called "Heritage" breeds.  We can still mate naturally, although all of us will be on your dinner table before we get the chance.  We can walk normally, fly sometimes, and run around in a flock like a group of teenage girls at a dance.  We are getting a lot of attention because many people consider the older breeds to be superior in a lot of ways- eating qualities, genetic diversity, ability to forage and thrive without a high-grain diet, etc.  There are even a few persevering farmers out there making a living off of heritage turkeys.  My husband and I are not part of that group.

We (not the turkeys, the farmers) added turkeys to our farm mix in 2005 and 2006.  The first year we raised a flock of broad-breasted white turkeys, the standard commercial variety.  We raised them in bottomless hoop houses that protected them from the elements and predators, while still giving them access to forage for bugs and eat grass.  We would move them 1-2 times a day so they always had access to fresh forage and never spent too much time standing on their manure.  The birds grew briskly and sold out quickly.  Most of the birds dressed out between 15-20lbs.  A few foodies and Slow Foodies suggested we try heritage birds.  In 2006 we raised a flock of 80 Bourbon Reds.  We started them earlier than the broad-breasted turkeys because we knew they needed an additional 3-4 months of growing time to get to decent size.  Instead of raising them in the bottomless pens, we allowed them to day-range and then would close them in at night.  Several of them succumbed to predation because they flew over our electric fence (the broad-breasted birds even when outside of their pens could not fly that high).  The birds that survived grew slowly but surely, still consuming nearly as much organic feed as their large, hybridized brothers and sisters.  And when it came time for these hens and toms to meet their maker, they dressed out on the puny end of the scale, between 8-12lbs.  Our customers who had eagerly signed up to reserve a heritage bird were not only disappointed about the size, but they also complained about the higher price tag and the noticeable lack of breast meat.  So the heritage birds cost 2.5 times the price as chicks,  took twice as long to grow out, ate nearly twice the food, and dressed out at half the size. We had to charge $8/lb. and we still made no profits on these birds.  What was curiously frustrating was that these self-described foodies still wanted the size and body shape of a hybrid bird, along with a small price tag.  Even somebody from a local Slow Food chapter still insists that we should be able to raise heritage turkeys for $4/lb.  Unbelievable words from somebody who has never farmed in his life. 

Many farmers are frustrated by the lack of breeding for commercial production, with heritage turkey breeders perhaps focusing on backyard or hobbyist producers.  Breeding for the commercial turkey producer requires better selection of traits such as faster growth, larger body size, better feed efficiency, more breast meat, and uniformity of growth.  It goes without saying, but to resurrect these heritage breeds it has to be profitable for the farmer.  That means better genetics, more quality breeders, wide-spread information on the most effective production systems, and stronger consumer awareness of the time and money it takes to produce these birds.  Also for those of you who champion heritage turkeys, help convince consumers that dark meat is better than white meat, that smaller birds are o.k.,  and that paying a lot for an animal once a year is reasonable and won't break the bank.

Comments

[Bill Newman]

I have two different breeds of Turkeys, Royal Palm and Bourbon Reds. They are year old, one hen is two years old. I was wondering why the tail feathers of the males are not filling out. The feathers are real short along with the wing feathers. Got any answers.

[Nicole]

It's a shame your customers were expecting the same kind of bird. I never really liked turkey before the local hertitage bird I got last fall.

It's the first time I actually ate all the breast meat at home and didn't send it off with guests. I'm usually more of a dark meat lover, but this whole bird was wonderful!

I believe I paid $7 for an 8 or 9 lb. bird. Totally worth it.

[Helen Williams]

I paid $10 per pound for my 20 pound heritage turkey this year and went from home in Santa Cruz to Berkeley to get it. I didn't get to eat it, my darling husband having given it away to his employee by mistake. But I still don't regret buying it--at least someone got to enjoy it and I like supporting food production by dedicated farmers like you whom I can trust. I absolutely don't mind paying more for my meat--turkey, pork, chicken, lamb, beef--knowing where it comes from. I bought a heritage bird from you when you sold them and it was nice being able to get it locally. But when I tell people how much those birds cost (when they ask), they can't imagine it. Still, when you feed a bunch of people, have leftovers for days, and then soup--all tasting most excellently--why wouldn't it cost that much? But thanks for this post Rebecca because I want to know how the production affects you the farmer as it informs my choices even more.

[McAuliflower]

This post is a shining example of what a great blog you have.

Illuminating the steps and issues involved in raising said birds to us unknowing masses is the key to avoid these clashes of expectations. I really do see this as a moment for education - one that I believe would override money grumbling.

I've seen this same issue in the context of handmade pottery. Having to explain why a handmade coffee cup is not $12 may be frustrating and feel insulting at times... but with the appropriate tone and mind set- it can turn into a light bulb moment for the consumer.

step by step- your blog will do this for you. I look forward to the day when we as consumers can get over our cheap food fetish.

[valereee]

It's always dismaying to me when I hear people complain about the facts of farming. If you want a breasty turkey for $1.49 a pound, you're talking Butterball. If you want a tasty bird that lived the way turkeys are supposed to live, you're going to pay more per pound and you're going to have to deal with the fact that evolutionarily, thighs are more important than breasts to an animal that goes on two legs and scratches for its food.

[Jean]

Not all Slow Food people are as out of touch with reality as the one who thinks a farmer can raise heritage birds on pasture and organic feed and sell them for $4 per pound. I talked to a couple of the local folks shortly before Thanksgiving who said they would be glad to pay more than $8 per pound for a local heritage turkey and worried that farmers weren't charging enough.

More people need to understand how expensive it is to raise Bourbon Reds and other heritage breeds to the minimum of 6 or 7 months of age necessary, but then and only then, they *do* have exceptional flavor and texture.

[Diana Foss]

I again paid big bucks for a Heritage Foods turkey this year, and I would dearly love to be able to purchase an heirloom bird from you and Jim. (Although I'm also happy to support the Good Shepherd folks who are keeping the breeds alive.)

But I totally support you in doing what you need to do to make a living farming the way you want to farm. A national concern like Heritage Foods can find enough people like me to make a profit; much harder for a small farm in Watsonville.

With all of the fetishizing of turkey at Thanksgiving, it's weird that it's so undervalued. I didn't actually see anyone doing it this year, but not too long ago, Safeway would give away a turkey free with $100 worth of groceries. Talk about a commodity. And let's not get into the horrible videos from the big turkey slaughterhouses.

Happy Thanksgiving, and I'm so looking forward to my half a TLC pig!